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FROM THE TRAVEL ARCHIVE

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port

Originally published · Korean source last modified

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 1

 

Sagara was near Fukue Port on Nagasaki’s Goto Islands.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 2

 

We walked through a quiet covered shopping street.

Most of the surrounding lights were off; only izakaya and restaurants were still open.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 3

 

I ordered Issho, a sweet-potato shochu well known on the Goto Islands.

Shochu commonly ranges from 25% to 30% alcohol; this one was 25%.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 4

 

In Japan, shochu is often drunk mizuwari style, diluted with water.

If it tastes too strong, you can add more water to suit your preference.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 5

 

We ordered Sagara’s basic kaiseki course.

 

The appetizers included grilled turban shell, wonderfully crisp fried shrimp, smoked ham, rolled omelet, and fried fish simmered in sauce.

It was an excellent selection to accompany a drink.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 6

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 7

 

As we ate and drank, they brought what looked like a teapot.

Inside were fish cakes in a delicious dashi broth.

We ate the fish cakes, then poured the broth into a cup to drink.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 8

 

A marinated fish dish followed, though I could not identify the fish.

It looked to me like a very large anchovy.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 9

 

The main sashimi dish was yellowtail.

The thickness surprised me: the slices were about three times as thick as the sashimi I usually encounter.

Yellowtail is also a well-known Goto Islands specialty.

Dipped in soy sauce with wasabi, its rich, moderately fatty flavor was delicious.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 10

 

Tempura came next.

It included pumpkin, shrimp and asparagus, another shrimp item, and eggplant.

At good tempura restaurants in Japan, salt is sometimes served instead of dipping sauce.

This was so crisp and delicious that I could understand the choice of salt.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 11

 

Then came Goto beef, known for its tenderness, with a Chinese-style sauce.

Even the pieces of carrot had been carefully carved—a detail that felt very Japanese.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 12

 

The final savory part of the kaiseki was a rice set with miso soup.

Something I find interesting about kaiseki is that the rice comes at the end, after the other dishes.

That order felt unfamiliar from my Korean dining background.

 

The seasoned mushrooms on the rice and the Japanese steamed egg were delicious.

 

Sagara on the Goto Islands: A Kaiseki Dinner Near Fukue Port — original photograph 13

 

Dessert was a simple fruit purée.

 

No individual serving was especially large, but the slow succession of dishes left us full by the end.

After enjoying the food of Goto, we headed back to our accommodation.

Read the original Korean account